Welcome to KosselPlus.com
(Click to magnify)
I don’t think I’m going to go into the business of building and selling 3D printers — I can’t build complete printers quickly enough to be competitive in the market.
However, I am selling some of the non-printable parts, which are useful for making higher precision Delta and Kossel printers:
High-precision ball studs are $1.50 each. 12 are needed.
10mm diameter 15mm high N52 magnets are $2 each. These are the best you can get. 12 are needed.
I use 5.84mm ∅ (0.230”) strong walled carbon fiber tubes from GoodWinds.com. 6 are needed. You can also use 10mm ∅ tubing
I also precisely build and sell assembled sets of magnetic zero-backlash arms complete with ball studs using the above parts. Each set of 6 will have a maximum variation of 50µm. I typically produce sets with less variation — 30µm is typical. The length of the arms from the center of one ball to the center of the other is about 288mm, which is the right size for a full-sized Kossel (~750mm high) printer. I also build them to 215mm lengths for Mini Kossel printers. I measure the arms with large calipers and mark their lengths on tape on each arm. A complete set of six, with CNC’d Delrin ends, is $75.
I’ve also added two more sizes: 304mm and 360mm. I believe 304mm is a better match for “classic” Kossel printers with 360mm horizontal extrusions and 250mm beds. The 360mm arms are for printers with 300mm beds and they are a little extra at $80/set.
If you need arms with a custom length, I can build them in lengths up to 505mm. They’re $115/set. If you’d like them built with 10mm CF tubing, it adds about $50 extra.
US airmail postage is a flat $5.
International airmail postage varies depending on the size of the package, but is typically between $9.50 and $24. Let me know what country you’re in and I’ll get you a quote.
Send me an email to let me know what you’d like and I’ll send you a PayPal request.
I’m at: email@example.com
Here are the quick and easy auto-calibration instructions.
My latest printer design http://www.Kumu-3D.com maximizes performance and minimizes cost. You can build one for about $600 and its performance is right up there with the very best!
If anyone is interested in building a KosselPlus, let me know and I’ll be glad to help you!
Some of its features are:
Here are links to designs for all of the parts, including OpenSCAD source in case you’d like to make modifications or improvements:
Bill of Materials
- It can print PLA, ABS, and most of the other filaments with an appropriate hotend.
- It is stiff enough to print at 90mm/sec or whatever your hotend is limited to. I typically print 50-100µm layers at 60mm/sec and do non-printing moves at 150mm/sec. Both the zero-backlash magnetic joints and A-bracing help with this.
- Print area is 250mm in diameter, and about 280mm high, though it tapers at the top.
- The power supply is located under the bed and has a power switch on the front.
- Silicone bed heater.
- Software speed control for the PLA cooling fans.
- Bright white LED light ring on the bottom of the effector.
- Top mounted spool holder.
- Shane’s extruder is also top mounted, just below the spool.
- Minimum length Bowden tube.
- Fan for cooling the hotend.
- Mk8 drive gear for 50% extra torque in the extruder.
- Dampeners for the XYZ motor mounts for noise reduction.
- Sorbothane feet for noise reduction.
- Inexpensive DeltaPrintr POM carriage wheels.
- DRV8825 stepper drivers with 1/32 stepping for smoothness.
- In typical operation, the machine is so quiet it is difficult to hear it from a few meters away (except for the fans on the effector and hotend).
- The machine is so rigid that I calibrate it once, and it stays in calibration for months, even after taking it on car rides.
- The only plastic parts I didn’t design are Johann Rocholl’s frame corners and endstops, Shane’s extruder, and the holder for the LCD display.
- The effector works best with a E3D hotend.
- Wire the LED light ring in parallel with the E3D hotend’s fan
- I replaced the cheap, noisy 12v fan in the power supply with a 24v one, which is more than powerful enough, and much quieter.
- I found that even with using 400 steps/mm and printing at 90mm/sec with 0.9°motors and 1/32 stepping, Repetier Firmware on an Arduino Mega is fast enough to keep up. When calibrating, I recommend using RC’s Marlin and setting the speed slow enough — even 1/4 speed, if necessary.
- Get 5 Geeetech DRV8825 stepper drivers — I have ordered at least 4 sets, and never received a set with more than 4 working ones!
- I’ve recently switched to using an AZSMZ 32-bit controller with Smoothieware. It is superior to an 8-bit Arduino.
- If using an 8-bit Arduino controller, then for initial calibration use these instructions and this version of Rich Cattell’s Marlin, with auto-calibration. It will save you a week’s worth of headaches! For production use the version of Repetier Firmware at the bottom of the page.
Copyright © 2018 Haydn Huntley, All Rights Reserved